more_brushless_setup_info2
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more_brushless_setup_info2 [2016/08/28 23:30] ian446 |
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| The simplest way is to solder the signal wire from each esc to the gate of each respective FET on the FC. No other modifications to the FC are required using this method. However, it requires reasonable soldering skills to solder a wire to the FET gate, and have a reliable connection, and without damaging other nearby components. | The simplest way is to solder the signal wire from each esc to the gate of each respective FET on the FC. No other modifications to the FC are required using this method. However, it requires reasonable soldering skills to solder a wire to the FET gate, and have a reliable connection, and without damaging other nearby components. | ||
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| - | Another (possibly more common) method is to solder a resistor say 1K value (1000 ohms) across each motor pad + and -. In other words, one end of the resistor is connected to the motor - pad and the other end is connected to the motor + pad. Then the signal for the esc is taken from the motor - pad. The motor caps also need to be removed, they are the tiny light brown/tan coloured components and are also connected by copper traces to the motor - and + pads. There is one for each motor. They can be removed with a standard soldering iron by applying a small amount of solder to the iron, and then heating the whole body of the capacitor, and then moving the iron to each end of the cap, and it will soon come off the board and stick to the iron. | + | The images below show the location of the gates for a H101 FC: |
| - | Don't forget to set the output signal polarity in the firmware, each method requires a different output signal polarity, because the signal is inverted when it passes through the FET. The esc's will not spin the motors if the polarity is set wrong. | + | {{http:// |
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| + | Another method is to solder a resistor say 1K value (1000 ohms) across each motor pad + and -. In other words, one end of the resistor is connected to the motor - pad and the other end is connected to the motor + pad. Then the signal for the esc is taken from the motor - pad. The motor caps also need to be removed, they are the tiny light brown/tan coloured components and are also connected by copper traces to the motor - and + pads. There is one for each motor. They can be removed with a standard soldering iron by applying a small amount of solder to the iron, and then heating the whole body of the capacitor, and then moving the iron to each end of the cap, and it will soon come off the board and stick to the iron. The pic below shows the location of the motor caps on a H101 FC: | ||
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| + | Don't forget to set the output signal polarity in the firmware, each method requires a different output signal polarity, because the signal is inverted when it passes through the FET. The esc's will not spin the motors if the polarity is set wrong. | ||
| POWERING THE FC | POWERING THE FC | ||
| - | There are a few ways to do this. The flight controller has an onboard regulator, but it is limited to how much input voltage it can take without getting too hot. Usually | + | There are a few ways to do this. The flight controller has an onboard regulator, but it is limited to how much input voltage it can take without getting too hot. 5V is safe for these boards, |
| 1. Use a voltage regulator (buck converter) from ebay or Banggood, I often use one with a variable output voltage set by a mini trimpot and set the output to 4V. It weighs around 1.6gm and works well. I am using this on several quads with no issues. To find one do a search for mini power module or mini step down or buck converter or use similar search terms. The disadvantage with this method is that you need to run a timer or low voltage buzzer so you don't completely flatten and damage your battery. Here is a pic: | 1. Use a voltage regulator (buck converter) from ebay or Banggood, I often use one with a variable output voltage set by a mini trimpot and set the output to 4V. It weighs around 1.6gm and works well. I am using this on several quads with no issues. To find one do a search for mini power module or mini step down or buck converter or use similar search terms. The disadvantage with this method is that you need to run a timer or low voltage buzzer so you don't completely flatten and damage your battery. Here is a pic: | ||
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| 2. Use one cell from your 2S or 3S quad battery. If you buy a mating balance connector, you can wire the negative and the first cell + to the FC to power it. This way the FC LED's will flash on low battery voltage. | 2. Use one cell from your 2S or 3S quad battery. If you buy a mating balance connector, you can wire the negative and the first cell + to the FC to power it. This way the FC LED's will flash on low battery voltage. | ||
| - | 3. Use an esc with inbuilt BEC, or a standalone mini 5V BEC. Run the 5V from the BEC to the battery terminals of the FC. I have done this successfully with H8 mini green and CG023 boards, but I have only the 2 LED's on top running, and this lightens the load on the FC's voltage regulator. Use this method at your own risk. Also you will need a timer or low voltage buzzer to know when your flying time is up. | + | 3. Use an esc with inbuilt BEC, or a standalone mini 5V BEC. Run the 5V from the BEC to the battery terminals of the FC. |
| BLHELI | BLHELI | ||
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| float pidkd[PIDNUMBER] = { 6.0e-1 , 6.0e-1 , 3.0e-1 }; | float pidkd[PIDNUMBER] = { 6.0e-1 , 6.0e-1 , 3.0e-1 }; | ||
| - | If you end up going round in circles trying to tune it, and can't seem to find some good settings, try some different props. Props that are a low load for the motors (low pitch or small diameter for the motor) are often difficult to tune right IME. | + | TELEMETRY BATTERY VOLTAGE MONITORING |
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| - | 1104, 1105, 1304, 1306, 1407 MOTORS | + | |
| - | 1104, 1105 and 1304 all use the same prop mounting system with 2 allen screws bolting the prop on. This is a strong system in that it is difficult | + | This E011 FC is powered by a 5V BEC so it needs an external battery voltage wire to monitor the batt voltage for telemetry. Where I soldered the blue 56k resistor to an existing resistor on the FC, I removed another resistor above that existing resistor, and a motor cap to the left for easier access for soldering (the cap is not needed |
| - | Myrcmart sells the RCX H1105 4000kv and 5000kv motors (as well as spare bearings and shafts), Banggood sell an Eachine BG1104 4000kv as well as the DYS 1104 motors in 5400kv, 6500kv and 7000kv versions. RotorX have 1105 4000kv and 1105B 6500kv versions. There are also Emax and Racerstar entering the small quad motor market. I find it difficult to recommend one motor over any other, the ones I have (Eachine, RCX, RotorX and DYS) all perform very well. | + | \\ |
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| - | When choosing the kv rating of a motor for your frame, the kv rating will largely determine the amount of thrust (and top speed) for a given battery 2S or 3S, and also the runtime for a given battery. The higher kv ratings will give more power at the expense of shorter runtime and less efficiency. All of these motors fly well on 2S, and fast on 3S. Have fun :) | + | TELEMETRY BATTERY VOLTAGE MONITORING FOR BWHOOP B-03 FC |
| - | Just a word of caution with motor mounting screws for these small motors - don't use screws that are any longer than 2mm more than the frame thickness, as there is a good chance that the internal windings will be permanently damaged if you do. If you have a 3mm frame, then 5mm screws are what you want (max). Phillips head M2 screws are lighter than Allen head screws and are cheap and plentiful on ebay. If you are not sure what length screws come with your motors when you order them (or you know they will be the wrong length), its a good idea to order some correct length screws at the same time to avoid disappointment when you start the build. | + | {{: |
more_brushless_setup_info2.1472419841.txt.gz · Last modified: 2016/08/28 23:30 by ian446
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