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h101_brushless_mod [2016/07/31 21:12]
sirdomsen
h101_brushless_mod [2018/04/14 01:02] (current)
sirdomsen
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-====== H101 Brushless Mod (not complete yet) ======+====== H101 Brushless Mod ====== 
 + 
 +(be aware that this build log is quite old, a few things in Silverware have changed now and are much easier to set up (the esc driver for example) 
 + 
 +PID section and BLHeli settings will be updated someday 
 + 
 +For Silverware using Brushless ESCs refer to [[:more_brushless_setup_info|-> Brushless setup]]
  
 === Some pictures of the end-result === === Some pictures of the end-result ===
  
-{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01611.jpg?direct&300x225}}{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01612.jpg?direct&300}}{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01613.jpg?direct&300}}{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01617.jpg?direct&300}}+{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01611.jpg?direct&300x225}}{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01612.jpg?direct&300}}{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01617.jpg?direct&300}}{{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01614.jpg?300}}
  
 {{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01615.jpg?direct&300}} {{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01615.jpg?direct&300}}
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 Here you see the flashing port (machine pins female) for Silverware and on the left the 5 pin Plug (I used 2mm pitched socket boards) for the 4 ESC servo wires and GND Here you see the flashing port (machine pins female) for Silverware and on the left the 5 pin Plug (I used 2mm pitched socket boards) for the 4 ESC servo wires and GND
 </file> </file>
 +
 +**Facts:**
 +
 +**{{  :wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01609.jpg?direct&300}}**
 +  * 94g AUW with 2S 350mAh (Quad alone weights 69g)
 +  * Flight Time over 6min with the above batteries
 +  * Inverted flight capability
 +  * FPV ready
  
 **Part List:** **Part List:**
  
-   * [[http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_230472.html?utm_source=mail_api&utm_medium=mail&utm_campaign=regular.0726&eo=7shpebbqzftpveff&email=b2t8aGFwcHloYXJyeXNjbzFAeWFob28uY28udWt8NzYxOQ==&utm_source=shareasale&utm_medium=shareasale&utm_campaign=shareasale|H101]]+  * [[http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters/pp_230472.html?utm_source=mail_api&utm_medium=mail&utm_campaign=regular.0726&eo=7shpebbqzftpveff&email=b2t8aGFwcHloYXJyeXNjbzFAeWFob28uY28udWt8NzYxOQ==&utm_source=shareasale&utm_medium=shareasale&utm_campaign=shareasale|H101 ]]or[[http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-H8S-3D-Mini-Inverted-Flight-2_4G-4CH-6Axis-One-Key-Return-RC-Quadcopter-RTF-p-1025599.html?rmmds=search| H8S]] (at least the [[http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-H8S-3D-Mini-RC-Quadcopter-Spare-Parts-Receiver-Board-H8S-004-p-1054433.html?rmmds=search|Board]])
   * [[http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1104-1104-Brushless-Motor-5400KV-6500KV-7000KV-2-3S-for-100-120-150-Mini-Multirotors-p-1048677.html|DYS BE 1104 5400 kV]]   * [[http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1104-1104-Brushless-Motor-5400KV-6500KV-7000KV-2-3S-for-100-120-150-Mini-Multirotors-p-1048677.html|DYS BE 1104 5400 kV]]
   * [[http://www.banggood.com/Tarot-TL120H1-120MM-Mini-Frame-Kit-for-FPV-Racer-Drone-p-1055476.html|Tarot 120mm Frame Kit]]   * [[http://www.banggood.com/Tarot-TL120H1-120MM-Mini-Frame-Kit-for-FPV-Racer-Drone-p-1055476.html|Tarot 120mm Frame Kit]]
-  * [[http://www.banggood.com/30x30-35x35-PCB-ESC-Power-Distribution-Board-For-MINI-Quadcopter-Multicopter-p-984686.html|Power Distribution Board (Cut Down the half of the Solder points, so I have only 4 remaining)]] +  * [[http://www.banggood.com/30x30-35x35-PCB-ESC-Power-Distribution-Board-For-MINI-Quadcopter-Multicopter-p-984686.html|Power Distribution Board ]]I cut away 4 of the Solder pads 
-  * [[http://www.ebay.de/itm/282060412194?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT|Sunrise Cicada 10A BLHeli_S ESCs]]+  * [[http://www.ebay.de/itm/282060412194?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT|Sunrise Cicada 10A BLHeli_S ESCs ]](or similar sized ESCs, For 3S, 6A ESCs are a bit undersized)
   * [[http://flyduino.net/Multikopter-Propeller-CW-CCW_117|HQ 3030 props]], they need to be cut down a little. I used a Dremel with a [[http://www.dremeleurope.com/sa/en/line-circlecutter-392-ocs-p/|Line and Circle Cutter.]] With them, you're able to fly upside down!   * [[http://flyduino.net/Multikopter-Propeller-CW-CCW_117|HQ 3030 props]], they need to be cut down a little. I used a Dremel with a [[http://www.dremeleurope.com/sa/en/line-circlecutter-392-ocs-p/|Line and Circle Cutter.]] With them, you're able to fly upside down!
   * [[http://www.banggood.com/4-Pairs-Eachine-3020-Propellers-CW-CCW-For-BG1104-4000KV-Motors-p-992325.html|Eachine 3020 props]] for normal flying   * [[http://www.banggood.com/4-Pairs-Eachine-3020-Propellers-CW-CCW-For-BG1104-4000KV-Motors-p-992325.html|Eachine 3020 props]] for normal flying
-  * 2S or 3S batteries between 300 and 500 mAh, maybe [[http://www.mylipo.de/Lipo-480mAh-111V-40C-80C-BLADE-180CFX|these]] or [[http://www.mylipo.de/Lipo-500mAh-74V-30C-60C|these]] (I use 1S 350 Walkera lipos at the moment and put them in a row using 2mm banana plugs. 2S is more than enough power IMHO+  * 2S or 3S batteries between 300 and 500 mAh, maybe [[http://www.mylipo.de/Lipo-480mAh-111V-40C-80C-BLADE-180CFX|these]] or [[http://www.mylipo.de/Lipo-500mAh-74V-30C-60C|these]] <del>(I use 1S 350 Walkera lipos at the moment and put them in a row using 2mm banana plugs. 2S is more than enough power </del> <del>IMHO)</del> 
 +  * Currently I use 3S 450mAh 30C batteries from [[https://www.stefansliposhop.de/Akkus/SLS-XTRON/SLS-XTRON-30C/SLS-XTRON-450mAh-3S1P-11-1V-30C-60C::993.html|here]]
   * [[http://www.banggood.com/10X-2mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-Connector-Plug-For-ESC-Battery-Motor-p-946666.html|2mm banana plugs]]   * [[http://www.banggood.com/10X-2mm-Gold-Bullet-Banana-Connector-Plug-For-ESC-Battery-Motor-p-946666.html|2mm banana plugs]]
-  * 4 Resistors (I used SMD ones) 0.2 - 1K Ohm+  * 4 Resistors (I used SMD ones) 0.2 - 1K Ohm (doesn't matter which value, just use one in between)
   * [[http://www.banggood.com/ST-LINK-V2-Emulator-Downloader-Programmer-Support-STM8-STM32-p-973898.html?AID=12202217&PID=3836173&SID=irayt1knyt0004o402ecu&source=affiliate&utm_source=Banggood_CJ&utm_medium=commission_junction&utm_campaign=OpenPilot&utm_content=sandy|ST Link V2]] for flashing Silverware   * [[http://www.banggood.com/ST-LINK-V2-Emulator-Downloader-Programmer-Support-STM8-STM32-p-973898.html?AID=12202217&PID=3836173&SID=irayt1knyt0004o402ecu&source=affiliate&utm_source=Banggood_CJ&utm_medium=commission_junction&utm_campaign=OpenPilot&utm_content=sandy|ST Link V2]] for flashing Silverware
-  * [[http://www.banggood.com/Arduino-Compatible-UNO-R3-LCD-1602-Keypad-Shield-Kit-For-Arduino-p-952802.html|BLHeli-Box]] for flashing the ESCs and configure them in the field. (Can be USB powered) For using a Laptop, you need at least an Arduino Nano (or the box of course) +  * [[http://www.banggood.com/Arduino-Compatible-UNO-R3-LCD-1602-Keypad-Shield-Kit-For-Arduino-p-952802.html|BLHeli-Box]] (The shielded UNO can be flashed to a BLHeli-Box using BLHeli-Suite) for flashing the ESCs and configure them in the field. (Can be USB powered) For using a Laptop, you need at least an Arduino Nano (or the box of course). Of course you can use a supported USB Linker Tool, too - watch [[https://github.com/4712/BLHeliSuite/raw/master/Manuals/BLHeli%20programming%20adapters.pdf|here]] 
-  * Some wires, maybe [[http://www.banggood.com/120Pcs-20cm-Color-Breadboard-Jumper-Cable-Wire-Combination-For-Arduino-p-974006.html|Jumper Wires]] or an old IDE 40Pin Cable+  * Some wires, maybe [[http://www.banggood.com/120Pcs-20cm-Color-Breadboard-Jumper-Cable-Wire-Combination-For-Arduino-p-974006.html|Jumper Wires]] or an old IDE 40/80Pin Cable
   * Time and patience   * Time and patience
  
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   - Mount all 4 motor   - Mount all 4 motor
   - Mount all ESCs on the arms   - Mount all ESCs on the arms
-  - Cut down the motor wires to the required length (or wiggle them around somewhere. Cut down wires are a pain to solder as they used enameled copper wire+  - Cut down the motor wires to the required length (or wind them around somewhere. Cut down wires are a pain to solder as they used enameled copper wire
   - Solder motor wires to the ESCs   - Solder motor wires to the ESCs
   - Solder Power wires to the PDB   - Solder Power wires to the PDB
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   * //Preparing the FC//   * //Preparing the FC//
-  - Disassemble the H101, Desolder the Motors. You can later use the Top Shell for your individual Quad's Style+  - Disassemble the H101/H8S, Desolder the Motors. You can later use the Top Shell for your individual Quad's Style
   - Solder wires to CLK, DAT and GND   - Solder wires to CLK, DAT and GND
   - Solder the Flash Plug to the Wires   - Solder the Flash Plug to the Wires
   - Desolder all 4 Caps on the motor arms   - Desolder all 4 Caps on the motor arms
-  - replace them with the resistors +  - <del>replace them with the </del> <del>resistors</del>  Solder the resistors at the motor pads (better pad distance) 
-  - I desoldered the Battery plug and used one with wires like H8 green board has, because I use My 1S Walkera Lipos. You can power up the FC with a step down at 4V (Causes Low power flashing not to work) or simply use GND and the Wire next to GND from the Balancer Port of your 2S/3S battery+  - I desoldered the Battery plug and used one with wires like H8 green board has, because I use My 1S Walkera Lipos. You can power up the FC with a step down at 4V (Causes Low power flashing/telemetry voltage not to work) or simply use GND and the Wire next to GND from the Balancer Port of your 2S/3S battery
   - Take another 5 IDE wires and solder them to GND, and all 4 Motor "-" Pads of the FC   - Take another 5 IDE wires and solder them to GND, and all 4 Motor "-" Pads of the FC
   - The other end to the correponding Plug which plugs the ESCs later   - The other end to the correponding Plug which plugs the ESCs later
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   * //Finish//   * //Finish//
   - Solder 5 Jumper wires to another, same sized plug that the FC has for plugging in the ESCs   - Solder 5 Jumper wires to another, same sized plug that the FC has for plugging in the ESCs
-  - Prepare BLHeli Box (Just flash it using [[https://blhelisuite.wordpress.com/|BLHeli Suite]])+  - Prepare BLHeli Box (Just flash it using [[https://blhelisuite.wordpress.com/|BLHeli Suite ]](click on "make interfaces" and select Arduino Uno LCD 1602 version)
   - Plug in the ESCs to the Jumper wires, plug the other end to the BLHeli-Box I used {{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01618.jpg?linkonly|this}} wiring.   - Plug in the ESCs to the Jumper wires, plug the other end to the BLHeli-Box I used {{:wiki:h101_brushless:dsc01618.jpg?linkonly|this}} wiring.
   - Check every wiring - for safety use something like [[http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2327875|this current limiter]]   - Check every wiring - for safety use something like [[http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2327875|this current limiter]]
   - Power Up the ESCs   - Power Up the ESCs
   - Flash latest BLHeli_S version (All 4 ESCs together)   - Flash latest BLHeli_S version (All 4 ESCs together)
-  - Set up ESCs like {{:wiki:h101_brushless:blhelisuitesilabs_esc_setup_160718_1.png?linkonly|This}} (You can play with the values of course, atm I use "High" Timing+  - Set up ESCs like {{:wiki:h101_brushless:blhelisuitesilabs_esc_setup_160718_1.png?linkonly|This}} <del>(You can play with the values of course, atm I use "High" Timing)</del>  For better motor revesing, use "medium" timing and Set startup power to at least 1.25
   - Unpower the Quad   - Unpower the Quad
   - Plug ESCs to FC   - Plug ESCs to FC
h101_brushless_mod.1469992330.txt.gz · Last modified: 2016/07/31 21:12 by sirdomsen